Diary of The Travelling Seanchai :-

A naked Moby Dick and another beating for Consi

2007-11-23 to 2007-11-27

I am staying in a place called Barra de Lagoa and to be honest it feels like the end of the world. And let me tell you this, the end of the world is nice! I was booked into the Backpacker´s Shared Hostel for two nights but within an hour of being there I had changed that to 5. Life is too short to spend in bad hostels so when you find a good one, its always great to extend your stay.

There was a great atmosphere about the place helped in no small part by the honesty system with regard to buying drinks and food in the place. You could just take a drink, then mark your name on a big chalk board and then the amount would be added to your bill. A  terribly dangerous idea when drinks are being had (a chalk mark does not feel as bad as the actual exchanging of money) albeit one that contributed greatly to the good times I was to have here.

Over the next few days, there were many hours on the beach, long treks, bonfires and numerous games of Texas Hold ´Em to be played. A large contingent of Scandinavians there meant I was learning more Swedish than Portuguese! On one of the walks, Kat and I decided to take the 75 minute walk over the hills to the famous Mole Beach on the other side. It was a fair trek and we got slightly waylaid on a few occasions. When we eventually made the beach we found that we got the one just before Mole, better known for it being a nudist beach.

I was relieved however to see that everyone was wearing clothes until one guy, in sunglasses and a dodgy handlebar moustache saw us walk by and jumped off the boulder he was sitting on and dropped his towel magnificently with hands on hips like some kind of superhero. Rather than give him the satisfaction of a surprise reaction, I smirked and insisted that Kat did not look over until we had walked on.

A little futher on, one of the truly sad mysteries of nature was before us as I was sure we were coming across a whale that had beached itself on the sand. I was going to call Greenpeace to report it in, when ´it´ got up and walked back to her undoubtedly long suffering husband. Ironically, I have been reading `Moby Dick´ of late so I was somewhat used to masses of white blubber wreacking havoc on unsuspecting men!

As I reflected on the retinal tissue damage that had been inflicted on me and the cost of therapy that was now going to curtail my world trip, we arrived on to Mole beach. Talk about the beautiful people. Men walked around looking like underwear models (their prediliction to Speedo´s is worryingly common) and the women were wearing dental floss for bikini´s. Everyone was there to look at everyone else as the nearby sea was left alone, I thought I had walked on to the set of a Kylie Minogue Video!

We went diving off some rocks aswell and it was great to throw yourself off them into the choppy waters below. The only problem was trying to get back on to the rocks again and I stepped down on either some coral or a sea urchin and it spiked me over 40 times with 1cm long shards of crystal. It was amazing how quickly they had embedded and the skin had closed over them again. So I had to hack away at my feet to get them out before I got infected to varying success (two weeks on, I took out another 7 yesterday!)

If I ever become famous, as unlikely as that may be, I will shun the customary hands in the concrete memorials and honour my feet instead as they take one hell of a beating on my travels…

And speaking of taking a beating, I have just endured another one! We all went to a samba club where the music was excellent but their crowd control was anything but. It was mobbed as everyone shuffled around to the music in a kind of geriatric line dancing way. I decided to head off early and while walking around outside for a cab, I came across two girls who were in some distress.

Needless to say, I inquired if I could be of any assistance but one of the girls, a local Brazilian girl told me that they were fine.

“We are FAR from FINE,´´ came the emphatic reply from her Norwegian friend as she sobbed away to herself and then promptly stormed off down the road.

The Brazilian girl pleaded with her to come back and to go back into the club and I hoped that another, more direct voice may have the desired affect.

“Annette, I think that you should go back to the club with your friend´´ I said, to which she rounded on me, walked back and punched me in the head!!!

What the **$#%?!!

She followed that up with a punch to the chest, then pushed me down on a parked car and hit me in the face with her handbag!! “Are you serious?!´´ I asked her friend and then I have to say that the madness of the situation got to me and I started laughing out loud (which Annette didn´t like too much but I was now out of reach!) and I told her friend that she was on her own.

Fortunately Annette did literally punch like a girl so I was free to go home without any medical attention!! The story got everyone off to a good start the next day as we sat down to our sumptuous breakfast. But soon it was time to leave here, as I left with Sofia and Natalie (Frodo and Sam) to take an overnight bus in the direction of Ilha Grande and ultimately, Rio De Jeneiro…


I´ve fallen in love……

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